Birdlip to Painswick

A bit of an uncomfortable night for me, there was a dip in the bed that made me feel like I was constantly trying to scramble out of a hole.

Despite being part of the Greene King chain, breakfast at the Royal George was somewhat below standard compared to the Rising Sun experience. Just little details missing that made it feel a little less soigné.

There was also a minor kerfuffle as I double checked our lodgings for this evening and couldn’t confirm in my notes and emails that I’d actually completed the booking. This was straightened out with a quick phone call, it turns out I had made a verbal commitment (dim recall) and so thankfully we didn’t have to hunt for an emergency alternative.

Just as well, as the CW is busy traffic and there must be pressure on limited accommodation at some of the smaller pit stops. I counted upwards of 30 walkers at breakfast, most of whom were probably heading South on the CW with us. Many seem to be North American (have we mentioned this?) and are keeping the luggage transfer companies in good business, judging by the mountain of suitcases at reception.

The vast majority of today’s walk was through a beautiful variety of woodland, with occasional glimpses out over the panorama below. 

We took a disappointing detour at Great Witcombe to check out the remains of a Roman villa, c 200CE. The guidebook noted the site was run by English Heritage, and free to access, with an apparently fine specimen of marine mosaic enclosed in the main house. In the event, the site was padlocked and there was little to see, other than what is left of the foundations.

More excitingly, we passed Cooper’s Hill, where the locals have an annual tradition of rolling an 8lb double Gloucester cheese down an incredibly steep slope, and chasing it to the bottom. First past the finishing line wins, with many others doing well to avoid a trip to A&E. Photos taken from top and bottom don’t do justice with just quite how steep and dangerous it looks!

Further along the route, we stopped over at Painswick Beacon for our customary lunchtime tea break with pastries and chocolate. It is an extraordinary place, the concentric ridges of an Iron Age hill fort enclosing part of a links golf course. To reach the Beacon, you have to walk between the fairways, dodging tee-offs in both directions. Spectacular views over Gloucester and out to the Severn Estuary.

When we reached Painswick, we had a pleasant mooch around the nearby rococo gardens, and then repaired to the Falcon Inn for a swift half. Unusually, the churchyard opposite the pub is a riot of topiary (title pic). The village itself is very attractive, the buildings are in a paler limestone than we’ve seen on the Cotswold so far.

We’re now checked in at Troy House; our fellow guests are American (natch), our host is a delightful Geordie called Denise. Cooling our heels watching the women’s rugby World Cup before dinner at The Painswick, a Michelin recognised restaurant (special treat to make up for the dismal corporate food of late).

PS Restaurant review. Sumptuous food. We shared a crisp potato terrine with whipped cod roe and rounds of Beaujolais saucisson to start, then branched into roast cauliflower in romanesco sauce and gnocchi Parisienne with hazelnuts (Em) and beef Wellington (me). The jus was worth the entry fee alone. Desserts followed, Basque cheesecake (Em) and strawberry tart (me). Such a high culinary standard, a joy. Eye-watering price tag, but we'll gloss over that.

Joff x