Vertical take-off

 

Finally we are on our way, tackling stage 1 of the 85 mile long Neckarsteig.

The day began with a spot of guerrilla breakfasting, surreptitiously purloining ingredients from the continental buffet to make up sandwiches and smuggle them out for lunch later. It was already getting pretty hot outside when we set off at 9am, picking up the start of the trail just by the entrance to Heidelberg Castle. 

It was a brutal opening, a 1 hour long, 400m climb up steep sandstone steps to the Konigs Stuhl. Em described it as toiling up the staircase of skyscraper. By the time we reached the top, slugging our heavy backpacks, we were drenched in sweat and our legs were feeling pretty wobbly. Perhaps we should consider a luggage transfer service next time. The views back to Heidelberg were spectacular though, and we ignored the smug tourists debouching from the funicular which runs up from the city to this popular spot.

Thankfully the terrain eased from this point, taking us along the criss-crossing tracks of the Odenwald, the mixed woodlands that dominate this area - beech, oak and pine.

The trail is well marked all the way by a N symbol, a neat and highly recognisable motif standing for the meandering Neckar river. It is a near infallible system, with clear markings painted on trees and rocks at each juncture in the network of paths, and at least every 200m or so. Theoretically you can’t get lost. Just as well, as we are without a local OS map or any kind of route guide to find our way.

The forest gave us plenty of welcome cool shade, and also the odd tantalising glimpse to the valley and undulating river below. 

We found a very pleasant spot for our picnic, with views down to our first destination, Neckargemünd, one of a number of sleepy riverside towns that are dotted along the Neckar.

It was boiling hot when we got there, so after dumping our stuff at the hotel, we changed into swimming togs and enjoyed a few lengths at the lovely outdoor freshwater pool. 

A brief nap at the hotel room (Em) and first draft of the day’s blog (me) and we were ready to explore the old town, with its half timbered buildings and attractive cobbled lanes. A quick tour established the main eateries and drinking holes. We sat by the wharf with a refreshing cold beer, and then settled for a traditional local gasthaus. I’ve now eaten more pig than the big bad wolf, and need to change up the holiday diet. The main event was the sudden arrival of paramedics on the scene, blue lights flashing, as one of the patrons took a turn. Everyone checked to make sure they hadn’t ordered the same thing off the menu and life moved on.

A couple of things to note. There is still a public culture of smoking at mealtimes, and the cashless society hasn’t yet arrived in this part of Germany.

Joff x